Far Out Son of Lung...

Ascending

Monster
I had a reply from Monster today. Insurance. No thank you.

Also had a voicemail from a recruiter that I need to call back.

Leading
I plan on leading some routes tonight and continuing to build my mental and physical inventory of muscle memory, accuity and focus. Over the last couple of weeks I have found that, more often than not, I am capable of climbing 5.9s without any trouble. I tend to get a little hung up when leading enters the picture, but I think it is more of a mental block than any lack of skill or strength.

If I try to many things in an attempt to make the move flow more easily I end up pumping out, which only makes it harder. I have also found that when I approach the route too seriously I end up over-thinking the moves, overlooking obvious holds and getting arm pumped in odd sitautions. However, when I devote myself to a challenging route I am able to tackle it and achieve things that are quite fun. Even over-hangy spots that require a bit more technique have not been too bad unless I allow myself to pause for a moment too long to consider how I am moving.

It is hokie, but it actually comes back to a single word. A single word that a shoe company uses as part of their advertising: Believe. I'm sure it sounds a bit silly, but if I simply believe that I can make a move, I -more often than not- am able to stick the deadpoint or needless heel hook. And, it is great fun.

Canyons
Climbing at Canyons in Frisco did me a lot of good. As Rock Gal pointed out to me, the routes required more thought and technique than the routes we are accustomed to at Summit. While some of the routes did go from jug to crimper and back again a bit too regularly, others were smooth ascents that forced you to consider your hand position and next three moves enable to correctly attack.

5.9+
One route, a 5.9+, was a particular bear for me. It started out on an arete and crossed to the right where a deadpoint was needed. The long move started off balance and out/up into a two finger, side-pull pocket. It took some mustering but I made the move and stuck it on my first try. Three or four moves later it was necessary to make a similar move around the same arete. The hold in question was much larger but the reach was a little further out. Again, I made the move without any real drama, and it tought me to trust myself on the harder stuff.

5.9 sit start
This route incorporated a very fun, sit-start overhang. My hands started on the left side of a sharp arete but my only footing was on around the corner, a bit far away and higher than my butt. I really needed to think about how to sit into the move and then slide across to the next two holds, both of with were small undercling type side pulls used to stand into a long throw to another side pull. From there it moved across a hook, then into another side pull and a gnurled sloper. The rest of the moves were not desperate, but they certainly were not simply. The route did require some thought and a few stretches, but I was pleased to cruise up without a take.

Tonight
I'm anxious to see how this plays into my climbing and if I will be able to overcome previous impressions of certain climbs.

posted by GreSam @ 15:48